When low flow toilets were first foisted on the public, I really hated the idea. Ironically, they usually had to be flushed twice to get the business done so they used more water rather than saving it. Another typical government bonehead legislation.

But the plumbing industry has matured somewhat and the best low flush toilets now use high pressure flushing devices or vacuum assisted tank mechanisms to make the flow go, so to speak.

The top-of-the-line models don’t come cheap though. The top model, the Toto Neorest Cyclone Flush, will set you back a staggering $3000! For that kind of money, I don’t want a cyclone; I want a hurricane! Shite!

Another ironic thing is that it seems that in this case we can’t save one element of the environment without bumping another. Kohler’s Purist Hat Pump model for example; it incorporates an electric pump to work its magic. So on the one hand, we save water. On the other hand, we use more electricity. Electricity of course,  is generated by burning evil coal, which fouls the environment.

And as we all know, that brings on “proven” global warming. Maybe Al Gore will rescue us.

You might also want to read:

• How to Fix Common Toilet Problems
• How to Replace a Toilet Wax Ring
• Benefits of the Tankless Water Heater

So you’ve got that fat tax refund coming soon and you’re wondering what to do with it? Tired of the way your home looks but moving to new digs isn’t exactly on the horizon in these troubled economic times? Why not satisfy both of those things by remodeling your kitchen?

Independent studies show that upgrading a kitchen or bath bring the largest ROI of any area of the home. Two of the most important things to consider are kitchen lighting and wiring. There are two reasons for this. First and foremost, electricity is potentially dangerous and you must protect yourself and your family.

Secondly, the electrical building code is getting more and more strict, and with good reason. I know that as DIYers, we’ve been known to, ahem, do projects without pulling permits (wink, wink, nod, nod), but it’s still important not to cut corners and obey the code.

If you’re one of those unlucky souls with a bad case of aluminum wiring, it’s time to replace all that junk. Danger, danger, Will Robinson! If you’re not old enough to understand that reference, don’t worry about it; it just means you’ve missed some high cultural cinematic material…

Lighting options have never been brighter, so to speak. Fluorescents have always been popular, but they are now available in more shapes and sizes. Halogen bulbs are great but they put out a lot of heat. LED bulbs, on the other hand, are beginning to kick butt. They haven’t fully evolved yet but are getting better all the time. I converted my little MagLite to the 3-bulb LED and couldn’t be happier.

How do they keep those flashlights so cheap? They’re the best on the market, and the cheapest. Go figure.

Speaking of kitchen remodeling, I spent part of yesterday afternoon replacing our garbage disposal. The last one I installed was a Badger 5, but this time I went with a Badger 1. I don’t work it too hard anyhow, so why pony up the extra bucks?

You might also want to read:

• Typical Electrical Building Codes
• The Benefits of LED Lighting
• Using GFCI Receptacles in the Bath and Kitchen

Recently I’ve gotten some email questions about grouting tile. The topic is really not as intimidating as it seems at first glance. And actually, it only takes a small bit of practice to get the technique down pat. To begin, you will need these tools and materials:

• Grout. It comes either sanded or non-sanded, powder or pre-mixed, in a wide variety of colors. I like to use pre-mixed grout for small jobs and mixable powder for larger ones. I do not recommend the fast-drying grout for anything other than the smallest jobs.
• A grout sponge. Any sponge will do, but a specially designed one makes the job easier.
• A bucket with water.
• Cheesecloth.
• High quality grout sealer.

The first thing to do after the mortar, thinset, or mastic has set is to plan your course of action. In other words, don’t paint yourself into the corner. Next, plan to do an area that you can reach while sitting or kneeling on the floor. You’ll remove the tile spacers as you go.

Wet the sponge and wring it out in the bucket. Scoop some grout onto the moist sponge and begin to sweep it across the floor, working the grout into the joints. Now, flush the sponge out again and wipe across the tiles just grouted.

The point here is to remove the grout from the tile surface and achieve a slight concave in the joints. The tile surfaces should be as clean as possible to reduce clean-up later.

When finished, let the grout dry and cure for the recommended time. Use the cheesecloth to remove grout film and polish the tile surface. Finish up by applying the grout sealer. I like to let the first coat dry and then add a second one. Done!

Don’t want to tackle the job yourself? Angie’s List - Ratings, reviews, and sometimes revenge. See what local homeowners say about the service companies they hire. Join now.

Related articles:

• Finish a Garage Floor with Epoxy
• Install Tile on Shower Walls
• Bathroom Remodeling: Be Your Own Contractor

I’m in the planning stages of my first woodworking project of the new year. It’ll be a custom floor transition between two ceramic tile floors. There will actually be 3 separate ones, but I’m going to tackle the longest one first.

Here’s the situation: my kitchen, entryway, and hallway were originally tile, but the living room was carpeting. I’ve since tiled the living room in a completely different kind of tile. So, the need for transitions. I’m planning to start with a poplar 1″ X 6″ and cut rabbets to shoulder over the tile edge.

Why make my own rather than buy off the shelf? For one thing, DIY! For another, some of the original tile have chipped edges and the wide shoulder will cover that.

Why poplar? I thought about using oak, but poplar is just less expensive and has some great colors, ranging from yellow to a mellow green. I love the “pin” grain of red oak, but poplar has its charm.

Now let me explain why I go to Home Depot rather than Lowes. It’s only partially because I own stock there. Last week when I went shopping, I stopped at Lowes just because it was convenient.

So I ambled up and down the aisles, looking for the hardwood area (guys only ask for directions as a last resort). OK, after 3 passes I found myself firmly entrenched in last resort territory.

“Where’s the hardwood?” I asked an associate.

She stared at me. “Huh?” She looked like the deer in the headlights that my friend Jay hit with his pickup truck a few years ago. I nicknamed his truck Deerslayer after that. Jay was not amused. Whatever.

“Hardwood,” I said. “You know, oak?”

“Don’t know. Go ask the guy at contractor sales desk.”

I asked him and he said, “If we have any, it would be at the end of that aisle.”

There wasn’t any. So I went to Home Depot and found a nice selection of both red oak and poplar. So my question is just this: why is Lowes, capital of ineptness, still in business? Hmm? Methinks their training program may be a bit lacking. Not to mention, when you hang a huge sign outside that says “Indoor Lumber Yard”, you should have some lumber for sale. Not just  studs and fence pickets. Just sayin’.

You might also want to read:

• How to Build a Recessed Medicine Cabinet
• Joinery with a Dovetail Joint
• Metal and Hardware for Woodworking Jigs